Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas celebrating our Saviour's birth. We had a very quiet, relaxed week-end.

Friday was an exploring day. We rode our bikes as far west as you can go in Marathon. That's not very far because the entire city only covers 8.6 square miles.

We checked out several restaurants before we decided on an old 1950s style cafe, Castaway. See pictures below.

The water here is so clear that you can see the rudder on the boat and the roots on the trees. One night there was a hugh manatee swimming around here in the harbor but we missed it. We do see fish almost everyday. It's strange to look down and see fish swimming around or shadows of clouds on the bottom.

Remember we told you about all the bikes here. This is just one of the parking lots...there's a bigger one at the end of the harbor.

Why even Santa rides a bike when he's here.

Saturday we went to a covered dish dinner where all the boaters in the area are invited to. Of course, they didn't all come but there was a nice size crowd and tons of good food including ham and turkey. With people from all other the world staying here there was quite a variety.

After dinner we went to a candlelight communion service which we enjoyed very much.

Christmas was another beautiful day so we walked to an 8:00am service about 2 blocks from here. Again, we had communion and met some nice people. The walk made us hungry so we had a big breakfast back on the boat. The rest of the day was quiet because most everyone either went home for Christmas or stayed on their boat like we did. Of course all the businesses were closed so there was very little going on.

Today it's back to business as usual. Lots of traffic in and out of the harbor. Most of the boats here are on mooring balls and they have to come in for water, showers, laundry, groceries, etc. Of course they don't bring their big boats in, they just use their dinghys. The dinghy dock is just past where're we docked in the harbor so we have a steady flow of people going back and forth.

This is a picture of the dinghy dock with a few of the boats there. Building in the bakcground is the showers/restrooms/ laundry.

We made a run to K-Mart this morning before it got too hot. Had to return an item and pick up a few things. Made an unplanned purchase - a DVD player - now we have to find a movie rental nearby. Or maybe borrow some from other boaters. Every morning at 9am there's a broadcast on the VHF radio for all boaters. It updates who's new and who's leaving, announcements of anything happening in the area, and what is for sale, swap or giveaway. Lots of interesting stuff - just learned this morning there are free Spanish lessons being given every Monday at 10am. Think I (Vi) might give it a try next week.

Tomorrow we're planning to take the bus down to Key West; it's a little too far to go by bike (about 17 miles). Will tell you about it in our next post.

A 40 day marathon trip to Marathon

After 40 days we are finally settling down in our temporary winter home. It's wonderful here. Sunny days, warm tempratures, mild breezes and very friendly people. We spent our first full day adjusting to our new life style. We have all of the comforts of home; lights, air conditioning, running water, a half-bath, cooking facilities. Everything except TV but guess what, we don't miss it at all.

Our bicycles are parked right outside our boat along with probably 200 or more other bikes. They are our main method of transportation. What ever we need we use our bikes to go and get. We did have to call a taxi the other day. We finally decided that we needed a refrigrator. Well, Phil just couldn't figure out how to get it from Home Deopt to our boat on his bike. So he rode to Home Depot and had a taxi bring him and the frig and his bike back to our boat. The next day he rode down to another marina to pick-up some medicine that we had mailed to them (we were supposed to stay there but it just wasn't the right place for us). On the way down there he passed a used furniture store and found two old chairs that he thought would work very nicely on our boat. Guess what? He tied the two chairs to his bike and pushed it about a mile or so back to the boat. What a sight that must have been.

Last night we went to a Bible study and then grab a bite to before returning to the boat around nine o'clock. This morning we set out to the grocery store. On the way we stopped at a thrift store. Not much there but we did find a tin box shaped like a NC Tar Heel with the Hatteras light house on it. The guy wanted a dollar for it but all we had was a twenty dollar bill so he just let us have it.

We left there and went to K-Mart to pick up a few things and then on to the grocery store. We ended up with a backpack full of stuff and about five bags of groceries that we managed to put on our bikes and return to the boat about two miles away.

Just as we were getting back on the boat a couple that we met in Ft. Lauderdale came by in their dinghy. They're the ones from California who have a lot in Oriental, NC. They came by later and visited with us for a while. It's nice to see somebody that you've met before. Makes you feel like there's a reason that you keep running into them. Perhaps God has a plan for them that we can help with.

The elderly man in the boat next to us had ask us to bring him a pumpkin pie from the store which we did. We just gave him the pie as a Christmas present. Later in the day he brought us a step ladder that we could use to get on and off our boat and wished us a Merry Christmas. God is good.

We had a steak, corn-on-the-cob and garlic toast for dinner. We are eating very well. A little relaxation and then off to bed. Tomorrow we'll go exploring further and maybe get some pictures of the island. There's a nice nature preserve here that we haven't had time to visit.

Phil doesn't do all of the helming (driving). Occasionally he let's me take the wheel.

This was Monday on the Gulf of Mexico as we were coming into Marathon.
Not sure you can tell much about it from this picture but the water was really choppy.

Yippeee! We There

After we bring you up to date about yesterday we'll tell you about today.

There are many interesting names in this area. For instance, Gilbert's Marina where we stayed Saturday night is on Jewfish Creek. Have no idea how it got it's name.

The antenna cable on the GPS shorted out so we got a late start.. West Marine is becoming one of our regular stops and it doesn't open on Sunday until 9am. But we finally got moving about 10:30. A couple of dolphins escorted us out of the harbor.

From Jewfish Creek we entered Blackwater Sound. The sound is just west of the Everglades National Park with vast expanses of water and mangrove forests. We didn't attempt to go ashore because all the keys within the park are restricted from landing except where designated and charted .

From Blackwater Sound, the ICW snakes through mangrove-lined Dunsenbury Creek, Tarpon Basin which is very shallow, then on to Buttonwood Sound. From there we entered Baker Cut which passes Pigeon Key and on to Cowpens Cut. Cowpens was named for the pens used to hold manatees, which were used for food by the Indians.

After Cowpens Cut we passed Islamorada (Spanish for “Purple Island”) before entering Steamboat Channel. The wind switched from east to northeast and increased to about 15-20 mph so we decided to make it a short day. God is always looking after us; just as we needed a place to hide we found the Lignumvitae State Botantical Park. We settled in about 3:30pm.

At 18 feet above sea level, Lignumvitae Key is the highest of the Keys; it is named for one of the hardest woods in the world, “the tree of life”.

In this area the ICW lies between the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico. Barrier islands offer some protection on the ocean side but there is very little to the west, just open waters.

The wind is going to rock us all night but we're securely tied to a mooring ball. We'll turn in early so that we can get an early start tomorrow and get into Marathon before late afternoon.

Just as predicted the wind kicked up all night making it hard to sleep. There was a heavy overcast this morning so we didn't get moving until almost 8am.

The wind continued to blow, gusting sometimes so bad that we couldn't use the jib to smooth the ride. After what seemed like an endless day we finally made it to Marathon about 3pm. Interestingly, we were in the Gulf of Mexico on one side of the Seven Mile Bridge and in the Atlantic Ocean on the other side.

The marina where we had reservations didn't work out because it was too far from everything and there was no public transportation nearby. So we came on in to Boot Key Harbor City Marina. They don't take reservations so we were taking a chance on a vacancy. Once again God was in control, they had one slip left on the floating dock and it was suppose to be for a 33' boat. Our boat is 34' but the dockmaster said he would fit us in and he did.

As soon as we registered and tied up we took the bikes and went exploring, mostly for food since we hadn't had lunch. Wendy's never tasted as good as it did today. We found a Home Depot nearby so Phil will be a happy camper.
And there's a small church that we're going to visit probably Wednesday night.

When we got back to the boat we put up our little Christmas tree and turned on the outside lights. We're the only boat in the harbor that's lite up. Maybe we're just eager or maybe they're all scrooges. But we won't let that dampen our spirits or enthusisam for being here at last.

By the way it's about 75 degrees tonight and the rest of the week is suppose to in the low 80s. Signing off for now; we'll give updates as we discover this delighful place.

Almost There

After spending a lazy day at Nettles Island Marina in Jensen Beach because of strong east winds we left Wednesday about 7am. The wind was still very strong but Phil did a great job getting us out of the slip with the wind on our stern. The ride was a little choppy until we let out the jib. Then we made excellent time to Jupiter Beach. NIGHTMARE... 6 bridges within a 10 mile stretch...3 that open on request and 3 that open on the hour and half-hour. Add to that mess, a barge that we had to wait for at the first hour/half-hour bridge. Fortunately we tagged onto it and made the next 3 bridges ahead of time.

While we were waiting for the barge one of the boats behind us came on the radio and asked the bridge tender how to get to the Okeechobee Waterway. He was already 20 miles too far south so he had to turn around and go back through the 3 on-request bridges. Not sure what kind of navigation aids he was using, if any, but he sure was off course.

The winds never let up all day, in fact they got stronger after lunchtime. When we got to Rivera Beach we pulled into a marina/boatyard that we found in Skipper Bob's Marinas Along the Intracoastal Waterway Guide. After fighting to dock the boat in the strong winds we found it noisy, smelly and without facilities. So we backtracked about a mile to a very nice marina that's actually cleaner and cheaper than the boatyard. Lesson learned: always ask questions about everything you read in this guidebook. There was a retired Presidential yacht berthed at this marina. Quite a beauty, wish we could have learned more about it but everybody was ready to go home by the time we got there.

Bridge Day – If yesterday (Thursday) was a nightmare with the bridges imagine our consternation today when we had 19 bridges that had to open for us. The only saving grace was south of Lake Worth the ICW becomes a canal with concrete bulkheads lining it's border. Along this stretch, town follows town with beautiful homes surrounded by subtropical growth in full bloom.

To end this already stressful day, we finally docked about 4 pm in Ft. Lauderdale at a city-owned marina. Let's just say we won't stay there again. We did meet a delightful couple from California who had lived aboard for 43 years. They raised both of their sons on board as they traveled all over the world. Now they've bought a lot in Oriental, NC and may one day settle down there.

Friday was a better day...only 11 bridges. The ICW runs through Miami on the western side and it goes on forever. There was nothing interesting to see unless you like high rise building, one after another after another. Because of all the bridges we did get to talk to people on the shoreline quite frequently. We finally got to Dinner Key Marina in Coconut Grove about 4:30. It's huge with 525 slips and 250 mooring bouys. We picked up a mooring bouys to save some money then rowed the dinghy in for dinner. Didn't realize that it was a 1 mile walk to the nearest restaurant. But now we can say we've had dinner at a landmark in the Coconut Grove.

This morning as we were preparing to leave the mooring bouy we saw a huge fire in the marina. A large yacht had caught fire and was sending foul-smelling black smoke up in the air. Shortly all the news helicopters were circling overhead and sirens were wailing. When we left they had the fire under control but the smell followed us for miles.

Getting to the Keys from Miami on the ICW requires crossing Florida Bay, a big body of very shallow water. We traveled for miles and saw very few boats until we neared Key Largo. We're docked at a small marina on the west bank of the ICW. Very laid back place with a lot of folks running around in shorts or bath suits on December 17th. We should be in Marathon on Monday and we'll give you another update.

One of the first things we saw as we pulled into the harbor was an old boat named Queen Anne's Revenge, just like the restaurant back home. Can't get the story behind it but I will try to post some pictures.

This is a lighthouse that we thought was an interesting color. Can't remember where it was but notice the people at the top. That's how close we were to shore.

This is the boat that we saw as we pulled in today.

Getting Closer

Tomorrow we will finally pass the 1000 mile marker so we're almost to the keys.

At the end of our last post we were docked in Palm Coast. We had a storm during the night and the next morning was the coldest morning since we left home. Again Phil's handiwork kept us cozy.

We had to stop the next day in Daytona Beach to pick up the new GPS. There was a courtesy dock that we used to get to West Marine. The tide was low, the dock was high and the winds were blowing away from the dock. We finally got the boat tied up and made our purchase. Then we had to figure out how to get away from the dock with the wind blowing us into it. As we started out of the marina, we were stopped because a dredging barge had the channel blocked.

We arrived at Seven Seas Marina in Port Orange, Fl about 3:30 and immdediatley went to work on installing the GPS. Neither one of us know much about electricity but we managed to rewire the new GPS to the existing wires and IT WORKED.

Next morning we had to rig up the new anchor that we bought in St. Augustine. Without a windlass it was quite a chore to secure a 45lb anchor to the front of the boat. We finally got under way about 8:15. Just below the Port Orange Bridge, a small mangrove island is the nesting ground for pelicans, egrets and cormorants. Next we had to go through the Ponce de Leon Cut which the cruising guides warned us are subject to shoaling at both the north and south ends. But we had no problems maybe due to the tide. After passing through the cut we saw lots of fishermen on both banks and some in boats. One guy pulled in a fish about 18" just as we were going by. When we asked what it was, he said a black bass. We were so interested in finding out what it was that we forgot to take a picture.

The next stretch is known as Space Coast Area because Cape Canaveral is located here. We could see the Space Shuttle hangar at the Kennedy Space Center. Since there are no more shuttle launches there wasn't a lot to see unless you stop and take a tour.

We arrived at Titusville about 3pm. The city marina has a new mooring field which we used but it was too far to row the dinghy to shore so we just stayed on the boat. The weather was nice enough for shorts and no shoes, there was a full moon and the lights from the harbor were quite nice.

Saturday morning we went into the harbor to pick up ice. There was a misty rain falling and it seemed strange to walk in the rain in December and not get cold. It was a short day so we arrived at Eau Gallie Yacht Basin at 2:30. Until the 1960's there were two distinct cities situated on the western end of the two causeways crossing the Indian River Lagoon. The southern city was Melborne and the northern city was Eau Gallie. Eau Gallie is French for "rocky water". In 1969 , the two cities merges,taking Melbourne as the name. However, the original downtown area of Eau Gallie continued to be referred to by the old city name. This land where the marina is located was deeded to John Houston, brother to Sam Houston, by Pres. Lincoln. The current owner took us to his memobilia room where we saw a copy of the orginal deed signed by Pres. Lincoln. Saurday night the marina was having it's annual Christmas party and everyone in the marina, as well as folks in town, were invited. It would have been a very nice night if it hadn't rained the entire evening.

Sunday morning we left Eau Gallie and made our way to Vero Beach City Marina and yet another mooring bouy. This time however we had to raft with another boat. (This means we had to tie up to the same mooring bouy as another boat.) The owners were not on board so it really didn't make a difference. Since there was nothing nearby and no public transportation on Sunday, we stayed onboard.

Today, Monday, we made a short run to Nettles Island Marina located at Jensen Beach, Fl. It's an interesting island that is partly man-made. There are a variety of accomodations here but again there is no public transportation. The dockmaster took up to a grocery store about 3 miles from the marina on the mainland.

Sorry folks, have lots of pictures but this connection won't let me post them. Marina wi-fi connections leave a lot to be desired. Maybe next time I'll have better luck.

Three Day Update

Monday morning we left Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville, Fl about 7 am with absolutely calm water. (See pic below). Shortly after we left, we saw the Mayo Clinic Jacksonville on the west bank...makes us feel better knowing that quality health care is always nearby. About 10 miles further south we entered the Pine Valley Cut. This is a 10 mile section with high-rise condos, houses and boat docks on the east and beautifully wild and wooded area on the west. I hope I can upload some pictures from this area.

A little further on we came on a sailboat that had run aground. The man couldn't row his dingy out to get a line and we couldn't move in close enough to throw him one. Three other boats slowed and tried to assist. The tide was at low slack so none of us could get to them. One captain told him that he was familiar with his boat and that it was safer to wait for the tide than for us to try to pull him off. We left them sitting on the bottom waiting for the incoming tide. But it was encouraging to see so many people willing to assist.

Monday night we had dinner (outside on a patio) with our friends from Asheville. It was great sitting outside in Dec having dinner. We were on a mooring bouy so Phil had to row us in to the shore. Easy going in because it was still daylight but going back we only had the moonlight and a few boats with anchor lights to guide us. He did a great job of taking directly to our boat.

Tuesday was a down day because Sailors Exchange wasn't open on Monday. As it turned out that was perfect because Phil had come down with a sinus infection and needed the down time. Fortunately, we had a Z-pak on board so he didn't have to see a doctor. He's feeling much better today.

As we were walking to the consignment shop, I heard someone calling to us. The Swiss family that we met in Green Pond, SC were behind us also headed to the consignment shop. That was a blessing because they knew exactly what we needed and helped us find the right anchor. Then a very nice gentlemen offered us a ride back to the marina. Not sure Phil could have carried that 45 pound anchor back that far (about 2 miles).

We fell in love with St. Augustine and plan to spend some time there on the way back home in the spring.

This morning we knew we had a short run so we lazed around until 8 before leaving. We were making great time until our GPS said that we were running down US 1 instead of the ICW. Turned out the data card stopped at St. Augustine so we had to “feel” our way to Palm Coast. After talking to Garmin, and finding out it would be Monday before we could get a new data card, we decided to buy a new GPS already loaded for the entire US. However, the nearest place to buy one is in Daytona. So tomorrow we have to navigate 25-30 mile with no GPS. Then we have we figure out how to connect the new one. Oh well, just another chapter in our continuing adventure.

Having trouble again uploading pictures so I hope there'll be something for you to see.

Beautiful reflections on flat, calm water.

This was the first landmark we saw as we neared St. Augustine.

This one is just for Dustin and Patrick. This was on a putt-putt golf course at the St. Augustine City Marina.

Friday, Saturday, Sunday???

When we can't get on the internet every day we have to flip open our phones to find out what day it is. Wonder what we did before technology came along. Well, today is Sunday and we're doing the laundry and taking showersat the Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville, FL. We had planned to go to church somewhere here tonight but the marina is way out of town with no public transportation.

Today was a fairly short cruise. It was too far to get to St. Augustine so we had a leisurely 30 mile cruise to Jacksonville.It was a pretty nice day....low 70's, light wind on our stern and a rising tide with the current pushing us most of the way. Uneventful, well except the one time I (Phil) hit a "bump in the road" commonly called the bottom!! I guess I must have been daydreaming.Just a little bump. No need to call TowBoat.

There are several boats here in the marina all lit up for Christmas.We have only turned ours on the one night so that we could a pciture to our cruise club.Heard the flotilla was great, as usual.

We want to stop in St. Augustine to visit the marine consignment shop to see if we can find the right size anchor for our boat. The one we have is too small. We called our friends Don and Sandi who were "live aboards" until last year when they bought a house in the mountains near Asheville, NC.We wanted to get some information about where the consignment shop is located. And guess what... we haven't seen them in over 2 years and they just happen to be coming to St. Augustine on Monday to take some of their boating stuff to the consignment shop. Wow! how good of God to make such nice arrangements for us to see our friends again.

I'm in the laundry room finishing up the laundry while Vi's in the marina lounge watching the Packers and the Giants do battle on TV...something we haven't seen much of lately. She came in and reminded me that we had not posted anything on the blog about Friday or Saturday.

We started off Saturday from Two Way Fish Camp Marina in Brunswick, GA. Bruswick is supposedly where brunswick stew orginated and got it's name. The morning was clear so we left about 7:15 headed to Fernandina Beach, FL.We passed a boat with no hailing port but it did have NC registration so we radioed him and ask where he was from. Turned out he had spent the last year in Elizabeth City and was traveling south alone.Perhaps we'll see him again in the Keys.

Once again the tides were with us so we made really good time with little trouble except a couple of sounds that kicked our butt. It's funny because I was talking to our friend Shirley Banrcord just before we crossed the first sound. She wanted to know if these sounds could get rough like the Albemarle. Not sure what I told her but now I can definitely say "YES". We could see the Atlantic off to our left and there were whitecaps so big they looked like boats. But God protected us from the rough water.

The wind had kicked up, gusting to 25 mph, when we arrived in Fernandina Beach. We tied up at the dock and rode our bikes for a short distance in the historical district.(Pictures below). Then back to the boat and out to a mooring bouy...boy was that fun in gusty winds...after some assistance from a guy we had met earlier in SC we finally got tied off.

Don't have much to write about Friday, trip was smooth with "no bumps in the road" except the one we hit coming out of the creek leading to the ICW. We spent Thursday night in a small marina outside of Richmond Hills, Ga where AJ Reynolds once had an estate. The scenery enroute was just more of the salt marshes that we saw all through Georgia.

Sorry folks, can't upload any pictures with this wi-fi connection. Maybe next time..until then God bless.

We had a lazy day...left the marina about 8am waiting for the tide and we could only do 28 miles today.  Marinas in Georgia are bunched up together and then miles apart.  As we pulled into the ICW, Paula Dean's house is visible on the left side.  The marina owner's wife said she was kind of weird just like she is on TV.

There are so many side trips that we'd like to take like the Isle of Hope Wormsloe Historic site. But if we did this it would take another six months.  Immediatley below Isle of Hope is a twisting stretch of the ICW calked Skidway Narrows. It is the preferred swimming hole of the local river otter population.  We didn't see any today but it could have been because of the boat traffic.

There's an anchorage in Moon River, the river made famous by songwriter Johnny Mercer and singer Andy Williams.  Since we're not anchoring out, we didn't go up Moon River but it didn't look at all like the song portrays it.  

We went through an area called Hell Gate which is suppose to be one of the most notorious sections of the ICW for shoaling.  We didn't have any problems and had a welcoming committee on the southern end. (See photo below.)

On much of our trip today we listen to a rescue effort by the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the US Coast Guard out of Charleston.  They had to rescue a hunter who had a heart attack somewhere around Hilton Head Island.  We happy to say that he survived until the helicopter arrived and airlifted him to Charleston.  It was encouraging to us that help is nearby if Phil has problems.

Here's our photo opps for today.

Shrimp boat at work in Possum Point on the Vernon River.

Our welcoming committee on a sand bar at the south end of Hell Gate.

Phil after a hard days work...not really this is the shortest day on the water so far.  There were several swings and a deck overlooking Kilkenny Creek where we docked for the night.

Vi on a deck overlooking the creek with Seahawk in the background.

A Little Bit of This and That

We left early this morning (6:30) in order to be ahead of the rising tide. Had to use spotlights to see the first few markers. We were in the Beaufort River which is broad and deep with a well-marked channel. This took us past Parris Island but we didn't see any Marines.  Guess it was to early for them. Just past Parris Island Spit we took a starboard turn to cross Port Royal Sound. This is supposedly the deepest natural harbor south of the Chesapeake Bay.  It's only about 5 miles across the sound but it was a bumpy ride with lots of white caps. 

From the sound we turned left into Skull Creek which goes past Hilton Head Island.  There were several folks on the radio telling us to slow down...leave no wake. One southern sounding lady came on and said "Remember, you're responsible for any damage you cause".  We could hardly stop laughing about any wake we could possibly leave. I told Phil I should have told her not to get her panties in a was because she couldn't go south for the winter.

There has been little funding in the past few years for maintenance dredging of the ICW south of Port Royal Sound, SC and Cumberland Sound, GA. So some areas in lower South Carolina and most of Georgia have become shallower with each passing year.  That means it's important to stay in the channel. follow the magenta line (the ICW route) and give markers a wide berth which we do. 

We crossed the Savannah River, going through a couple of cuts, and took the Wilmington River.  As a side note for those of you who read "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" the Bonadventure Cemetery made famous in that book is visible from the ICW.  

We arrived at Sail Harbor Marina, east of Savannah, about 2:30... a little early to stop for the day but we had to get a pump-out and had laundry to do. 

Below are the pictures that I couldn't upload last night and a few from today. Enjoy!

Our Swiss friends, Patricia and Thierry, that we met at Green Pond, SC.

For our Cypress Cove Crusiing Club, we're with you in spirit for the fotilla this week-end.  Seahawk is all dressed up.

Phil all bundled up and ready for Christmas. 

Sunrise over Port Royal Sound.  The Albemarle Sound doesn't have anything on this one when it comes to choppy water...especially when the tide and winds are opposing which they were later this morning

Think these guys were waiting for lunch?  There were dozens of them in the wake of this boat taking up crab pots or something.

We passed this cruise ship north of Savannah; we couldn't decided where it was coming from or going to.  For the inquiring minds. it was the Independence.

CCCCers,  remember what it's like to pass a barge in the ICW. Thank goodness this big boy doesn't come up our way...it was at least 150' long.

Phil spotted this pair of eagles in one of the marshes we were passing.  This is as close as I could zoom in.

Seahwak and Kermit at rest after a hard day's work. Thankfully we haven't had any trouble with the boat. Hoping that will continue.

Charleston to Port Royal

After an uncomfortable night on the face dock in Charleston City Marina we were more than ready to get going Sunday morning.  There were heavy clouds so we couldn't leave until about 7:15. 

Instead of canals and dredged cuts like the ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) in North Carolina, this section winds across wide river mouths, through sounds and past coastal inlets.  There are swift tidal currents, and lots of bottlenose dolphins that ride the wake of passing boats. It's pretty straightforward piloting but also easy to lose your way if you don't keep track of the markers.  Phil is very careful about this, in fact, he makes a list of every marker with the color and number for each day's trip.

We pulled into a tiny fishing village, Green Pond, SC about 2:30 and docked behind a hugh shrimp boat.  You'll see pictures later.  There was a small seafood market there where the fishermen sell their catch so we had fresh shrimp for dinner that night.  That is the only business in the village.

A couple of hours after we docked, a boat from Switzerland pulled in.  It was a couple with a 9 year old child (Patricia, Thierry, and Marvin) and they had been living on the boat since he was 2 weeks old.  They didn't have reservations but were looking for safe harbor from an approaching storm.  We really enjoyed getting to know them during the 2 days that we waited out the storm. 

This morning dawned partially cloudy and cool but we left Green Pond about 7:30 right behind our new friends.  Phil said it was the most relaxed day he had had behind the wheel. We had our very own airshow from figther jets stationed at the US Marine Corp Air Station. I was so enthralled in watching them fly formation and buzz our boats that I forgot to take pictures. 

By the time we got to Ladies Island Swing Bridge at 11:05 it was COLD.  The bridge is on restricted openings so we had to wait until 1pm for the next opening.  There is a marina just before you reach the birdge that's on the protected water of Factory Creek. They allow boats to dock there free for a couple of hours to shop or just wait for the bridge opening.  Our Swiss friends decided to spend the night there but we came on to Port Royal Landing Marina which is right at the mouth of Port Royal Sound.  We didn't want to risk getting through the bridge before 7am and it doesn't open from 7-9.

Here are a few pictures from the past 3 days.   

 
This is the small seafood market and dock where we found shelter from the storms.

And this is the big shrimp boat I mentioned.  It didn't go out while we were there because of the weather.



But a smaller boat was out when we got there and gave us these fish that Phil is cleaning.  They were delicious.

There are some more pictures that I wanted to add but it would take until Christmas to upload with wi-fi speed at 18Mbps.  Maybe tomorrow night.

For those of you who have, or want to add comments, I don't know what to tell you.  I've been able to see only comments from Kathy and Bill.  Will let you know if I can figure it out. 

Today was uneventful on the water.  No weather problems, no narrow cuts to navigate, and no swift currents to battle until time to anchor.  We went a little past Charleston harbor up the Wappoo River to an anchorage recommended in one of our cruising guides...probably Skipper Bob's which we've found to be woefully out of date.  We found the anchorage okay but between the current and the tide we couldn't get the anchor to hold.  After aggravating with that for about 30 minutes, we gave up and came back to the Charleston City Marina.  We're sitting here at the end of the face dock with a lot of mega yachts...makes our little boat look like a bathtub toy.  The bathhouse, restrooms, laundry, marina office, etc. is at least a quarter mile from where we're docked.  And as for wi-fi, they're no better than the small ones we've stayed in for the past couple of nights.  This one is so busy that it kicks you off about every 10 minutes.  So much for big pricey marinas.

I'll try to show you a little of what we saw today.



This was one of the first things we saw this morning as we entered the ICW..two boats anchored in what appears to be grass but it's really marshland that's deep enough for an anchorage.

This is the same two boats against a firey sunrise.



One more shot of that magnificient sunrise.  And those of you who know me well know that I'm not a morning person but this is worth getting up for. 

There's always a faster boat than us and this time I caught it in passing. 



Phil thought this was so pretty with the cloud banks in the background.

Not sure if this guy was resting or standing watch.  As you can see, he wasn't intimidated by our passing so close.

Guess this one just got tried and quit.

Another brave watchman on a very worn-out ICW navigation aid.

This was our first glimpse of the new twin span bridge in Charleston.

This is not a pirate ship as much as it may look like one; it's a cruise boat out of the Charleston harbor.

 We past a regetta in progress and I caught these two boats in front of the new bridge. 

That's all folks.  It's past our bedtime because 5:30 comes awful early. Phil is still working on tomorrow's route...one marina is too close and the next one looks like another one of those mom-and-pop places that doesn't have much to offer except a dock. 

Until next time, God bless.

Thanksgiving with the Johnsons

Hope all of you had a happy Thanksgiving.

Once again we have a lot of catching up to do.  My brother Clarence died on November 18.  We left the boat dcoked at Barefoot Marina in Myrtle Beach, rented a car and went home for the funeral.  I know he's not suffering anymore but it left a hig ole hole in my heart and in our family.

Tuesday mroning we got up early and drove back to Myrtle Beach, the first 2 hours in pouring rain.  We got in early enough to fuel up, pump out and get provisions; even charted the next day's trip. We had planned to do about 50 miles but Mother Nature had other ideas...thunderstorm after midnight and gale force winds all day Wednesday.  We did manage to get the Christmas lights on the boat so that we can light up next week-end when our cruising club is in the Christmas flotilla. 

Thanksgiving dawned clear and COLD.  We made excellent time because of the tide and current.  We planned to anchor in the harbor at Georgetown but decided to take the road less traveled and went a couple of miles up the river to a small family-owned marina.  When we called to ask about a slip we also asked if there was someplace we could get a turkey dinner.  The lady, Lorene Johnson, said yes, at her house.  It was mid-afternnon by the time we got there and they had already eaten but she insisted that we come to the house and eat.  We had turkey with all the trimmings plus a homemade coconut cake (Phil's favorite dessert). Even though we were perfect strangers they invited us into their home and shared their food with us, a perfect example of biblical hospitality. We continue to be amazed at the generous, helpful people that we meet at every stop.

This morning we got up early, like 5:30 early, planning to pull out at first light.  However, the river was invisible with dense fog that didn't lift until almost 8:30.  Then we had a tough time getting the stern and spring lines off the dock because the tide had gone out and pulled them very tight.  Finally got underway at 8:30 planning to again make 50 miles.  It was slow going with the tide and current against us and Phil wasn't feeling well so we once again altered our plans.  The Leland Oil Co Marina is the only one between  Georgetown and the outskirts of Charlestown so that's where we pulled in around 1pm.  Would you believe it, the woman taking care of the marina had been a GI nurse for 30 years. She's not usually here but her husband had to take his truck in for repair work and she was holding down the fort.  After asking Phil several questions about his problem she decided that he's probably not going to konk out on me anytime soon. God willing, she's right.

For those of us who think Columbia is small, this little town halfway between Geogetown and Charleston, has 450 people, 2 restaurants, and a hardware store.  We took a walking tour of the town and thoroughly enjoyed the massive, old oak trees hanging full of moss.  Looks like a scene right out of "Gone With the Wind".  The streets are narrow, winding and some unpaved. We missed a turn coming back and wound up in a nice young man's backyard.  He was friendly, outgoing and spent a 1/2 hour talking to us before telling us how to get back to the marina...through several other backyards.

Phil felt better after our hike and took a nap.  Now he's had a bowl of soup and he's ready for bed so that we can attempt another daylight departure.

Some of these small marinas advertise wi-fi but the signal is weak and the owners don't really know what to do with it.  We will post again as soon as possible.

Seahawk and Kermit at Barefoot Marina

Grande Dunes Bridge, North Myrtle Beach

Our Thanksgiving benefactors, Mr & Mrs Johnson

Birding waiting for a shrimp dinner off the boat

Weather Delay, Friendly People, Sad News

We've got a lot of catching up to do.  After we left the library Tuesday afternoon we walked back to the harbor. An old gentleman passed us on his car, stopped and welcomed us to Southport. We ask him where the nearest pharmacy was and he told us it was about 2 miles.  Then he told us to get in the car and he'd take us there and back.  It reminded us of the "Rose Man" in Elizabeth City who passed away.

Wednesday morning was extremely foggy so we waited until daylight and then followed another sailboat out.  We bumped the sandbar going out and made it to the second ICW marker before turning back. It was too foggy to travel safely.  Robert, who lives across from the harbor met us at the city dock and helped us tie up. He said he gave us an A for coming back but a B for leaving in the first place. 

We had a thunderstorm about midnight and the fog and high winds continued through Thursday.  We had plenty of time to check out this lovely little town with a big town feeling.  Everybody we met was friendly and went out of their way to be helpful . Robert loaned us his truck to go for supplies, insisted that we use his washer and dryer to do our laundry.  His house sits up about 25 feet and looks down on the harbor. He invited us to come over and watch the sunset from his front porch. He and his wife are going to Marathon in January so we'll see them there.

This morning dawned clear and cold (34).  We left the harbor about 6:20 headed for Dock Holiday's Marina in Little River, SC.  We made such good time that we continued on to Myrtle Beach. The only tricky part of the trip is a 15 mile stretch through the Pine Island Cut.  The channel is narrow, the edges are prone to shoaling and rock ledges abut the deepest part of the channel. These ledges are visible only at low tide.  Fortunately this time of the year most boats are headed south so we didn't meet anyone in the cut.  If the Barefoot Island Swing Bridge hadn't held us up for an hour we would have been tied up by 2pm.  The bridge is undergoing repairs so along with 5 or 6 other boats we had to circle for an hour before it opened.

It may be several days before we post again because we received news today that my (Vi's) brother is not expected to live through the week-end.  We may go back home in the morning.  The people here at Barefoot Marina have agreed to let us leave the boat here and charge us a special rate.  My nephew lives 2 hours west of here and agreed to pick us up.  Everything just fell into place.  God really  does work in mysterious ways.

Please keep us in your prayers during this difficult time.

300 miles down and 900 to go!!!!

This morning we left the marina before full daylight. The water was glassy slick and we made both bridges with no delays. Stopped in Wrightsville Beach to pick up some ice that we couldn't get last night at that fancy private marina. 

Then the fun began.  Navigating the cut where you turn into Carolina Beach was challenging.  The current is very strong going through the bridge and there's lot of shoaling from the ancient sand dunes on the west side. Phil did a great job getting us thru and then came the Cape Fear River...lots of markers, swift currents and tides...things we don't have to deal with on the Albemarle Sound.

We finally pulled into Southport about 2pm hoping to find an anchorage in a small basin beside the city dock. There were already 2 boats anchored but the Southport Police Dept allows you to tie up for 24 hours at the city dock.  A very nice man helped us dock and then gave us directions to several places.

We sitting in the library now catching up on email and bringing you up to date.  Afterwards we're going to check out this lovely little town...who knows maybe we'd like to live here one day. 

Tomorrow night we plan to be in or very near the South Carolina line.  Thunderstorms predicted through Thursday so we may have another idle day depending on the VHF forecast.

We will check in with you again as soon as possible...leave the light on for us.  

Monday, Monday

Monday has never been my (Vi's) favorite day of the week and today was no different.  We left Casper's Marina in Swansboro about 6:45am and moved right on through Camp LeJeune.  Even made both bridges without too much delay (and with a little help from the bridge tender at the Surf City Swing Bridge). But from there it went downhill.  We had planned to anchor at Sloop Point which according to Capt. Bob's Cruising Guide is an okay place.  Forgetaboutit!!  Channel is very narrow and only 6 foot (or less) in some places.  Since it was only 12:45 we had plenty of time to check out both anchorages there, right?  Wrong, we ran aground at one and couldn't set the anchor at the other.  Then we ran aground again trying to get back into the ICW. Bless Phil's heart he figured out how to get us free from both groundings so we didn't have to call BoatUS. 

We finally made it to Harbor Village Marina about 3:45. It's a private marina that rents transient slips IF you call ahead.  They don't answer the radio and sometimes not the phone so it's a little dicey getting a reservation.  It's a really nice place but doesn't cater to the public; no place to get anything but ice and nobody to unlock that.  Needless to say we'll try to plan better coming back in the spring.

To finish this Monday just right, I lost all the pictures that I took today while uploading them.  Oh well, tomorrow is another day.

Five Days Out

Wednesday was where I left you so now let's get caught up.

Thursday was a beautiful, uneventful day on the water.  We left Alligator River Marina around 6:30 am. Within 2 hours we were joined by a parade of boats.  There was no time during the day that we couldn't see boats in front of us and boats behind us.  Big boats, little boats, fast boats and slow boats but none slower than us.  We pulled in the anchorage at Dowry Creek about 3 pm.  There was a beautiful sunset and full moon that evening (attaching pictures of both).

Friday dawned clear, cold and windy.  Small craft warnings were out for most waterways in northeastern NC. Not wanting to cross the Pamlico under those conditions, we stayed put.

Saturday was another beautiful day with perfect wind to cross the Pamlico and the Neuse River.  We had planned to stay in Oriental but they were maxed out so we went on to Adams Creek anchorage.  Had 2 other sailboats and 2 power boats for company.  The weather was mild enough to grill on the back of the boat.

Both Dowry Creek and Adams Creek anchorage are good places to stop...scenic and well-protected with good holding at both.

Sunday found us up and moving again by 6:30.  Caught the tide just right in Morehead City and made really good time to Casper's Marina in Swansboro. After fueling up, pumping out, washing down the boat and filling the water tanks, we walked a couple of blocks to The Icehouse restaurant.  If you're ever in Swansboro, check it out. The service was good and the food was excellent.  Back to the boat, a shower and Sunday night football...that's going to be the hardest part for me (Vi), not getting my football fix every week-end. 

Tomorrow's destination is iffy because we could be delayed at Camp  Lejeune if trainng exercises are in progress. Will let you know where we wind up in the next post that could be 2-3 days.

                                     
                          Seahawk at Dowry Creek anchorage with Vi taking a picture of Phil in the dingy.

                                     
                                                  Phil and "Kermit" playing in the pond!!

                                                               Sunset at Dowry Creek

                                                            Full moon at Downy Creek