A Little Bit of This and That

We left early this morning (6:30) in order to be ahead of the rising tide. Had to use spotlights to see the first few markers. We were in the Beaufort River which is broad and deep with a well-marked channel. This took us past Parris Island but we didn't see any Marines.  Guess it was to early for them. Just past Parris Island Spit we took a starboard turn to cross Port Royal Sound. This is supposedly the deepest natural harbor south of the Chesapeake Bay.  It's only about 5 miles across the sound but it was a bumpy ride with lots of white caps. 

From the sound we turned left into Skull Creek which goes past Hilton Head Island.  There were several folks on the radio telling us to slow down...leave no wake. One southern sounding lady came on and said "Remember, you're responsible for any damage you cause".  We could hardly stop laughing about any wake we could possibly leave. I told Phil I should have told her not to get her panties in a was because she couldn't go south for the winter.

There has been little funding in the past few years for maintenance dredging of the ICW south of Port Royal Sound, SC and Cumberland Sound, GA. So some areas in lower South Carolina and most of Georgia have become shallower with each passing year.  That means it's important to stay in the channel. follow the magenta line (the ICW route) and give markers a wide berth which we do. 

We crossed the Savannah River, going through a couple of cuts, and took the Wilmington River.  As a side note for those of you who read "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" the Bonadventure Cemetery made famous in that book is visible from the ICW.  

We arrived at Sail Harbor Marina, east of Savannah, about 2:30... a little early to stop for the day but we had to get a pump-out and had laundry to do. 

Below are the pictures that I couldn't upload last night and a few from today. Enjoy!

Our Swiss friends, Patricia and Thierry, that we met at Green Pond, SC.

For our Cypress Cove Crusiing Club, we're with you in spirit for the fotilla this week-end.  Seahawk is all dressed up.

Phil all bundled up and ready for Christmas. 

Sunrise over Port Royal Sound.  The Albemarle Sound doesn't have anything on this one when it comes to choppy water...especially when the tide and winds are opposing which they were later this morning

Think these guys were waiting for lunch?  There were dozens of them in the wake of this boat taking up crab pots or something.

We passed this cruise ship north of Savannah; we couldn't decided where it was coming from or going to.  For the inquiring minds. it was the Independence.

CCCCers,  remember what it's like to pass a barge in the ICW. Thank goodness this big boy doesn't come up our way...it was at least 150' long.

Phil spotted this pair of eagles in one of the marshes we were passing.  This is as close as I could zoom in.

Seahwak and Kermit at rest after a hard day's work. Thankfully we haven't had any trouble with the boat. Hoping that will continue.

Charleston to Port Royal

After an uncomfortable night on the face dock in Charleston City Marina we were more than ready to get going Sunday morning.  There were heavy clouds so we couldn't leave until about 7:15. 

Instead of canals and dredged cuts like the ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) in North Carolina, this section winds across wide river mouths, through sounds and past coastal inlets.  There are swift tidal currents, and lots of bottlenose dolphins that ride the wake of passing boats. It's pretty straightforward piloting but also easy to lose your way if you don't keep track of the markers.  Phil is very careful about this, in fact, he makes a list of every marker with the color and number for each day's trip.

We pulled into a tiny fishing village, Green Pond, SC about 2:30 and docked behind a hugh shrimp boat.  You'll see pictures later.  There was a small seafood market there where the fishermen sell their catch so we had fresh shrimp for dinner that night.  That is the only business in the village.

A couple of hours after we docked, a boat from Switzerland pulled in.  It was a couple with a 9 year old child (Patricia, Thierry, and Marvin) and they had been living on the boat since he was 2 weeks old.  They didn't have reservations but were looking for safe harbor from an approaching storm.  We really enjoyed getting to know them during the 2 days that we waited out the storm. 

This morning dawned partially cloudy and cool but we left Green Pond about 7:30 right behind our new friends.  Phil said it was the most relaxed day he had had behind the wheel. We had our very own airshow from figther jets stationed at the US Marine Corp Air Station. I was so enthralled in watching them fly formation and buzz our boats that I forgot to take pictures. 

By the time we got to Ladies Island Swing Bridge at 11:05 it was COLD.  The bridge is on restricted openings so we had to wait until 1pm for the next opening.  There is a marina just before you reach the birdge that's on the protected water of Factory Creek. They allow boats to dock there free for a couple of hours to shop or just wait for the bridge opening.  Our Swiss friends decided to spend the night there but we came on to Port Royal Landing Marina which is right at the mouth of Port Royal Sound.  We didn't want to risk getting through the bridge before 7am and it doesn't open from 7-9.

Here are a few pictures from the past 3 days.   

 
This is the small seafood market and dock where we found shelter from the storms.

And this is the big shrimp boat I mentioned.  It didn't go out while we were there because of the weather.



But a smaller boat was out when we got there and gave us these fish that Phil is cleaning.  They were delicious.

There are some more pictures that I wanted to add but it would take until Christmas to upload with wi-fi speed at 18Mbps.  Maybe tomorrow night.

For those of you who have, or want to add comments, I don't know what to tell you.  I've been able to see only comments from Kathy and Bill.  Will let you know if I can figure it out. 

Today was uneventful on the water.  No weather problems, no narrow cuts to navigate, and no swift currents to battle until time to anchor.  We went a little past Charleston harbor up the Wappoo River to an anchorage recommended in one of our cruising guides...probably Skipper Bob's which we've found to be woefully out of date.  We found the anchorage okay but between the current and the tide we couldn't get the anchor to hold.  After aggravating with that for about 30 minutes, we gave up and came back to the Charleston City Marina.  We're sitting here at the end of the face dock with a lot of mega yachts...makes our little boat look like a bathtub toy.  The bathhouse, restrooms, laundry, marina office, etc. is at least a quarter mile from where we're docked.  And as for wi-fi, they're no better than the small ones we've stayed in for the past couple of nights.  This one is so busy that it kicks you off about every 10 minutes.  So much for big pricey marinas.

I'll try to show you a little of what we saw today.



This was one of the first things we saw this morning as we entered the ICW..two boats anchored in what appears to be grass but it's really marshland that's deep enough for an anchorage.

This is the same two boats against a firey sunrise.



One more shot of that magnificient sunrise.  And those of you who know me well know that I'm not a morning person but this is worth getting up for. 

There's always a faster boat than us and this time I caught it in passing. 



Phil thought this was so pretty with the cloud banks in the background.

Not sure if this guy was resting or standing watch.  As you can see, he wasn't intimidated by our passing so close.

Guess this one just got tried and quit.

Another brave watchman on a very worn-out ICW navigation aid.

This was our first glimpse of the new twin span bridge in Charleston.

This is not a pirate ship as much as it may look like one; it's a cruise boat out of the Charleston harbor.

 We past a regetta in progress and I caught these two boats in front of the new bridge. 

That's all folks.  It's past our bedtime because 5:30 comes awful early. Phil is still working on tomorrow's route...one marina is too close and the next one looks like another one of those mom-and-pop places that doesn't have much to offer except a dock. 

Until next time, God bless.

Thanksgiving with the Johnsons

Hope all of you had a happy Thanksgiving.

Once again we have a lot of catching up to do.  My brother Clarence died on November 18.  We left the boat dcoked at Barefoot Marina in Myrtle Beach, rented a car and went home for the funeral.  I know he's not suffering anymore but it left a hig ole hole in my heart and in our family.

Tuesday mroning we got up early and drove back to Myrtle Beach, the first 2 hours in pouring rain.  We got in early enough to fuel up, pump out and get provisions; even charted the next day's trip. We had planned to do about 50 miles but Mother Nature had other ideas...thunderstorm after midnight and gale force winds all day Wednesday.  We did manage to get the Christmas lights on the boat so that we can light up next week-end when our cruising club is in the Christmas flotilla. 

Thanksgiving dawned clear and COLD.  We made excellent time because of the tide and current.  We planned to anchor in the harbor at Georgetown but decided to take the road less traveled and went a couple of miles up the river to a small family-owned marina.  When we called to ask about a slip we also asked if there was someplace we could get a turkey dinner.  The lady, Lorene Johnson, said yes, at her house.  It was mid-afternnon by the time we got there and they had already eaten but she insisted that we come to the house and eat.  We had turkey with all the trimmings plus a homemade coconut cake (Phil's favorite dessert). Even though we were perfect strangers they invited us into their home and shared their food with us, a perfect example of biblical hospitality. We continue to be amazed at the generous, helpful people that we meet at every stop.

This morning we got up early, like 5:30 early, planning to pull out at first light.  However, the river was invisible with dense fog that didn't lift until almost 8:30.  Then we had a tough time getting the stern and spring lines off the dock because the tide had gone out and pulled them very tight.  Finally got underway at 8:30 planning to again make 50 miles.  It was slow going with the tide and current against us and Phil wasn't feeling well so we once again altered our plans.  The Leland Oil Co Marina is the only one between  Georgetown and the outskirts of Charlestown so that's where we pulled in around 1pm.  Would you believe it, the woman taking care of the marina had been a GI nurse for 30 years. She's not usually here but her husband had to take his truck in for repair work and she was holding down the fort.  After asking Phil several questions about his problem she decided that he's probably not going to konk out on me anytime soon. God willing, she's right.

For those of us who think Columbia is small, this little town halfway between Geogetown and Charleston, has 450 people, 2 restaurants, and a hardware store.  We took a walking tour of the town and thoroughly enjoyed the massive, old oak trees hanging full of moss.  Looks like a scene right out of "Gone With the Wind".  The streets are narrow, winding and some unpaved. We missed a turn coming back and wound up in a nice young man's backyard.  He was friendly, outgoing and spent a 1/2 hour talking to us before telling us how to get back to the marina...through several other backyards.

Phil felt better after our hike and took a nap.  Now he's had a bowl of soup and he's ready for bed so that we can attempt another daylight departure.

Some of these small marinas advertise wi-fi but the signal is weak and the owners don't really know what to do with it.  We will post again as soon as possible.

Seahawk and Kermit at Barefoot Marina

Grande Dunes Bridge, North Myrtle Beach

Our Thanksgiving benefactors, Mr & Mrs Johnson

Birding waiting for a shrimp dinner off the boat

Weather Delay, Friendly People, Sad News

We've got a lot of catching up to do.  After we left the library Tuesday afternoon we walked back to the harbor. An old gentleman passed us on his car, stopped and welcomed us to Southport. We ask him where the nearest pharmacy was and he told us it was about 2 miles.  Then he told us to get in the car and he'd take us there and back.  It reminded us of the "Rose Man" in Elizabeth City who passed away.

Wednesday morning was extremely foggy so we waited until daylight and then followed another sailboat out.  We bumped the sandbar going out and made it to the second ICW marker before turning back. It was too foggy to travel safely.  Robert, who lives across from the harbor met us at the city dock and helped us tie up. He said he gave us an A for coming back but a B for leaving in the first place. 

We had a thunderstorm about midnight and the fog and high winds continued through Thursday.  We had plenty of time to check out this lovely little town with a big town feeling.  Everybody we met was friendly and went out of their way to be helpful . Robert loaned us his truck to go for supplies, insisted that we use his washer and dryer to do our laundry.  His house sits up about 25 feet and looks down on the harbor. He invited us to come over and watch the sunset from his front porch. He and his wife are going to Marathon in January so we'll see them there.

This morning dawned clear and cold (34).  We left the harbor about 6:20 headed for Dock Holiday's Marina in Little River, SC.  We made such good time that we continued on to Myrtle Beach. The only tricky part of the trip is a 15 mile stretch through the Pine Island Cut.  The channel is narrow, the edges are prone to shoaling and rock ledges abut the deepest part of the channel. These ledges are visible only at low tide.  Fortunately this time of the year most boats are headed south so we didn't meet anyone in the cut.  If the Barefoot Island Swing Bridge hadn't held us up for an hour we would have been tied up by 2pm.  The bridge is undergoing repairs so along with 5 or 6 other boats we had to circle for an hour before it opened.

It may be several days before we post again because we received news today that my (Vi's) brother is not expected to live through the week-end.  We may go back home in the morning.  The people here at Barefoot Marina have agreed to let us leave the boat here and charge us a special rate.  My nephew lives 2 hours west of here and agreed to pick us up.  Everything just fell into place.  God really  does work in mysterious ways.

Please keep us in your prayers during this difficult time.

300 miles down and 900 to go!!!!

This morning we left the marina before full daylight. The water was glassy slick and we made both bridges with no delays. Stopped in Wrightsville Beach to pick up some ice that we couldn't get last night at that fancy private marina. 

Then the fun began.  Navigating the cut where you turn into Carolina Beach was challenging.  The current is very strong going through the bridge and there's lot of shoaling from the ancient sand dunes on the west side. Phil did a great job getting us thru and then came the Cape Fear River...lots of markers, swift currents and tides...things we don't have to deal with on the Albemarle Sound.

We finally pulled into Southport about 2pm hoping to find an anchorage in a small basin beside the city dock. There were already 2 boats anchored but the Southport Police Dept allows you to tie up for 24 hours at the city dock.  A very nice man helped us dock and then gave us directions to several places.

We sitting in the library now catching up on email and bringing you up to date.  Afterwards we're going to check out this lovely little town...who knows maybe we'd like to live here one day. 

Tomorrow night we plan to be in or very near the South Carolina line.  Thunderstorms predicted through Thursday so we may have another idle day depending on the VHF forecast.

We will check in with you again as soon as possible...leave the light on for us.  

Monday, Monday

Monday has never been my (Vi's) favorite day of the week and today was no different.  We left Casper's Marina in Swansboro about 6:45am and moved right on through Camp LeJeune.  Even made both bridges without too much delay (and with a little help from the bridge tender at the Surf City Swing Bridge). But from there it went downhill.  We had planned to anchor at Sloop Point which according to Capt. Bob's Cruising Guide is an okay place.  Forgetaboutit!!  Channel is very narrow and only 6 foot (or less) in some places.  Since it was only 12:45 we had plenty of time to check out both anchorages there, right?  Wrong, we ran aground at one and couldn't set the anchor at the other.  Then we ran aground again trying to get back into the ICW. Bless Phil's heart he figured out how to get us free from both groundings so we didn't have to call BoatUS. 

We finally made it to Harbor Village Marina about 3:45. It's a private marina that rents transient slips IF you call ahead.  They don't answer the radio and sometimes not the phone so it's a little dicey getting a reservation.  It's a really nice place but doesn't cater to the public; no place to get anything but ice and nobody to unlock that.  Needless to say we'll try to plan better coming back in the spring.

To finish this Monday just right, I lost all the pictures that I took today while uploading them.  Oh well, tomorrow is another day.

Five Days Out

Wednesday was where I left you so now let's get caught up.

Thursday was a beautiful, uneventful day on the water.  We left Alligator River Marina around 6:30 am. Within 2 hours we were joined by a parade of boats.  There was no time during the day that we couldn't see boats in front of us and boats behind us.  Big boats, little boats, fast boats and slow boats but none slower than us.  We pulled in the anchorage at Dowry Creek about 3 pm.  There was a beautiful sunset and full moon that evening (attaching pictures of both).

Friday dawned clear, cold and windy.  Small craft warnings were out for most waterways in northeastern NC. Not wanting to cross the Pamlico under those conditions, we stayed put.

Saturday was another beautiful day with perfect wind to cross the Pamlico and the Neuse River.  We had planned to stay in Oriental but they were maxed out so we went on to Adams Creek anchorage.  Had 2 other sailboats and 2 power boats for company.  The weather was mild enough to grill on the back of the boat.

Both Dowry Creek and Adams Creek anchorage are good places to stop...scenic and well-protected with good holding at both.

Sunday found us up and moving again by 6:30.  Caught the tide just right in Morehead City and made really good time to Casper's Marina in Swansboro. After fueling up, pumping out, washing down the boat and filling the water tanks, we walked a couple of blocks to The Icehouse restaurant.  If you're ever in Swansboro, check it out. The service was good and the food was excellent.  Back to the boat, a shower and Sunday night football...that's going to be the hardest part for me (Vi), not getting my football fix every week-end. 

Tomorrow's destination is iffy because we could be delayed at Camp  Lejeune if trainng exercises are in progress. Will let you know where we wind up in the next post that could be 2-3 days.

                                     
                          Seahawk at Dowry Creek anchorage with Vi taking a picture of Phil in the dingy.

                                     
                                                  Phil and "Kermit" playing in the pond!!

                                                               Sunset at Dowry Creek

                                                            Full moon at Downy Creek

Day One of Our Adventure

Long day, short trip.  Had to get an early start at the house in order to leave Columbia before noon.  Weather was nice, water calm most of the trip. Pulled into Alligator River Marina about 4pm. This is the first and last safe overnight spot until we get to the other end of the Alligator River. Tomorrow we should be able to do about 50 miles before sunset.  Probably won't have wi-fi tomorrow night but will update you on Friday.