Getting Closer

Tomorrow we will finally pass the 1000 mile marker so we're almost to the keys.

At the end of our last post we were docked in Palm Coast. We had a storm during the night and the next morning was the coldest morning since we left home. Again Phil's handiwork kept us cozy.

We had to stop the next day in Daytona Beach to pick up the new GPS. There was a courtesy dock that we used to get to West Marine. The tide was low, the dock was high and the winds were blowing away from the dock. We finally got the boat tied up and made our purchase. Then we had to figure out how to get away from the dock with the wind blowing us into it. As we started out of the marina, we were stopped because a dredging barge had the channel blocked.

We arrived at Seven Seas Marina in Port Orange, Fl about 3:30 and immdediatley went to work on installing the GPS. Neither one of us know much about electricity but we managed to rewire the new GPS to the existing wires and IT WORKED.

Next morning we had to rig up the new anchor that we bought in St. Augustine. Without a windlass it was quite a chore to secure a 45lb anchor to the front of the boat. We finally got under way about 8:15. Just below the Port Orange Bridge, a small mangrove island is the nesting ground for pelicans, egrets and cormorants. Next we had to go through the Ponce de Leon Cut which the cruising guides warned us are subject to shoaling at both the north and south ends. But we had no problems maybe due to the tide. After passing through the cut we saw lots of fishermen on both banks and some in boats. One guy pulled in a fish about 18" just as we were going by. When we asked what it was, he said a black bass. We were so interested in finding out what it was that we forgot to take a picture.

The next stretch is known as Space Coast Area because Cape Canaveral is located here. We could see the Space Shuttle hangar at the Kennedy Space Center. Since there are no more shuttle launches there wasn't a lot to see unless you stop and take a tour.

We arrived at Titusville about 3pm. The city marina has a new mooring field which we used but it was too far to row the dinghy to shore so we just stayed on the boat. The weather was nice enough for shorts and no shoes, there was a full moon and the lights from the harbor were quite nice.

Saturday morning we went into the harbor to pick up ice. There was a misty rain falling and it seemed strange to walk in the rain in December and not get cold. It was a short day so we arrived at Eau Gallie Yacht Basin at 2:30. Until the 1960's there were two distinct cities situated on the western end of the two causeways crossing the Indian River Lagoon. The southern city was Melborne and the northern city was Eau Gallie. Eau Gallie is French for "rocky water". In 1969 , the two cities merges,taking Melbourne as the name. However, the original downtown area of Eau Gallie continued to be referred to by the old city name. This land where the marina is located was deeded to John Houston, brother to Sam Houston, by Pres. Lincoln. The current owner took us to his memobilia room where we saw a copy of the orginal deed signed by Pres. Lincoln. Saurday night the marina was having it's annual Christmas party and everyone in the marina, as well as folks in town, were invited. It would have been a very nice night if it hadn't rained the entire evening.

Sunday morning we left Eau Gallie and made our way to Vero Beach City Marina and yet another mooring bouy. This time however we had to raft with another boat. (This means we had to tie up to the same mooring bouy as another boat.) The owners were not on board so it really didn't make a difference. Since there was nothing nearby and no public transportation on Sunday, we stayed onboard.

Today, Monday, we made a short run to Nettles Island Marina located at Jensen Beach, Fl. It's an interesting island that is partly man-made. There are a variety of accomodations here but again there is no public transportation. The dockmaster took up to a grocery store about 3 miles from the marina on the mainland.

Sorry folks, have lots of pictures but this connection won't let me post them. Marina wi-fi connections leave a lot to be desired. Maybe next time I'll have better luck.

Three Day Update

Monday morning we left Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville, Fl about 7 am with absolutely calm water. (See pic below). Shortly after we left, we saw the Mayo Clinic Jacksonville on the west bank...makes us feel better knowing that quality health care is always nearby. About 10 miles further south we entered the Pine Valley Cut. This is a 10 mile section with high-rise condos, houses and boat docks on the east and beautifully wild and wooded area on the west. I hope I can upload some pictures from this area.

A little further on we came on a sailboat that had run aground. The man couldn't row his dingy out to get a line and we couldn't move in close enough to throw him one. Three other boats slowed and tried to assist. The tide was at low slack so none of us could get to them. One captain told him that he was familiar with his boat and that it was safer to wait for the tide than for us to try to pull him off. We left them sitting on the bottom waiting for the incoming tide. But it was encouraging to see so many people willing to assist.

Monday night we had dinner (outside on a patio) with our friends from Asheville. It was great sitting outside in Dec having dinner. We were on a mooring bouy so Phil had to row us in to the shore. Easy going in because it was still daylight but going back we only had the moonlight and a few boats with anchor lights to guide us. He did a great job of taking directly to our boat.

Tuesday was a down day because Sailors Exchange wasn't open on Monday. As it turned out that was perfect because Phil had come down with a sinus infection and needed the down time. Fortunately, we had a Z-pak on board so he didn't have to see a doctor. He's feeling much better today.

As we were walking to the consignment shop, I heard someone calling to us. The Swiss family that we met in Green Pond, SC were behind us also headed to the consignment shop. That was a blessing because they knew exactly what we needed and helped us find the right anchor. Then a very nice gentlemen offered us a ride back to the marina. Not sure Phil could have carried that 45 pound anchor back that far (about 2 miles).

We fell in love with St. Augustine and plan to spend some time there on the way back home in the spring.

This morning we knew we had a short run so we lazed around until 8 before leaving. We were making great time until our GPS said that we were running down US 1 instead of the ICW. Turned out the data card stopped at St. Augustine so we had to “feel” our way to Palm Coast. After talking to Garmin, and finding out it would be Monday before we could get a new data card, we decided to buy a new GPS already loaded for the entire US. However, the nearest place to buy one is in Daytona. So tomorrow we have to navigate 25-30 mile with no GPS. Then we have we figure out how to connect the new one. Oh well, just another chapter in our continuing adventure.

Having trouble again uploading pictures so I hope there'll be something for you to see.

Beautiful reflections on flat, calm water.

This was the first landmark we saw as we neared St. Augustine.

This one is just for Dustin and Patrick. This was on a putt-putt golf course at the St. Augustine City Marina.

Friday, Saturday, Sunday???

When we can't get on the internet every day we have to flip open our phones to find out what day it is. Wonder what we did before technology came along. Well, today is Sunday and we're doing the laundry and taking showersat the Palm Cove Marina in Jacksonville, FL. We had planned to go to church somewhere here tonight but the marina is way out of town with no public transportation.

Today was a fairly short cruise. It was too far to get to St. Augustine so we had a leisurely 30 mile cruise to Jacksonville.It was a pretty nice day....low 70's, light wind on our stern and a rising tide with the current pushing us most of the way. Uneventful, well except the one time I (Phil) hit a "bump in the road" commonly called the bottom!! I guess I must have been daydreaming.Just a little bump. No need to call TowBoat.

There are several boats here in the marina all lit up for Christmas.We have only turned ours on the one night so that we could a pciture to our cruise club.Heard the flotilla was great, as usual.

We want to stop in St. Augustine to visit the marine consignment shop to see if we can find the right size anchor for our boat. The one we have is too small. We called our friends Don and Sandi who were "live aboards" until last year when they bought a house in the mountains near Asheville, NC.We wanted to get some information about where the consignment shop is located. And guess what... we haven't seen them in over 2 years and they just happen to be coming to St. Augustine on Monday to take some of their boating stuff to the consignment shop. Wow! how good of God to make such nice arrangements for us to see our friends again.

I'm in the laundry room finishing up the laundry while Vi's in the marina lounge watching the Packers and the Giants do battle on TV...something we haven't seen much of lately. She came in and reminded me that we had not posted anything on the blog about Friday or Saturday.

We started off Saturday from Two Way Fish Camp Marina in Brunswick, GA. Bruswick is supposedly where brunswick stew orginated and got it's name. The morning was clear so we left about 7:15 headed to Fernandina Beach, FL.We passed a boat with no hailing port but it did have NC registration so we radioed him and ask where he was from. Turned out he had spent the last year in Elizabeth City and was traveling south alone.Perhaps we'll see him again in the Keys.

Once again the tides were with us so we made really good time with little trouble except a couple of sounds that kicked our butt. It's funny because I was talking to our friend Shirley Banrcord just before we crossed the first sound. She wanted to know if these sounds could get rough like the Albemarle. Not sure what I told her but now I can definitely say "YES". We could see the Atlantic off to our left and there were whitecaps so big they looked like boats. But God protected us from the rough water.

The wind had kicked up, gusting to 25 mph, when we arrived in Fernandina Beach. We tied up at the dock and rode our bikes for a short distance in the historical district.(Pictures below). Then back to the boat and out to a mooring bouy...boy was that fun in gusty winds...after some assistance from a guy we had met earlier in SC we finally got tied off.

Don't have much to write about Friday, trip was smooth with "no bumps in the road" except the one we hit coming out of the creek leading to the ICW. We spent Thursday night in a small marina outside of Richmond Hills, Ga where AJ Reynolds once had an estate. The scenery enroute was just more of the salt marshes that we saw all through Georgia.

Sorry folks, can't upload any pictures with this wi-fi connection. Maybe next time..until then God bless.

We had a lazy day...left the marina about 8am waiting for the tide and we could only do 28 miles today.  Marinas in Georgia are bunched up together and then miles apart.  As we pulled into the ICW, Paula Dean's house is visible on the left side.  The marina owner's wife said she was kind of weird just like she is on TV.

There are so many side trips that we'd like to take like the Isle of Hope Wormsloe Historic site. But if we did this it would take another six months.  Immediatley below Isle of Hope is a twisting stretch of the ICW calked Skidway Narrows. It is the preferred swimming hole of the local river otter population.  We didn't see any today but it could have been because of the boat traffic.

There's an anchorage in Moon River, the river made famous by songwriter Johnny Mercer and singer Andy Williams.  Since we're not anchoring out, we didn't go up Moon River but it didn't look at all like the song portrays it.  

We went through an area called Hell Gate which is suppose to be one of the most notorious sections of the ICW for shoaling.  We didn't have any problems and had a welcoming committee on the southern end. (See photo below.)

On much of our trip today we listen to a rescue effort by the US Fish and Wildlife Service and the US Coast Guard out of Charleston.  They had to rescue a hunter who had a heart attack somewhere around Hilton Head Island.  We happy to say that he survived until the helicopter arrived and airlifted him to Charleston.  It was encouraging to us that help is nearby if Phil has problems.

Here's our photo opps for today.

Shrimp boat at work in Possum Point on the Vernon River.

Our welcoming committee on a sand bar at the south end of Hell Gate.

Phil after a hard days work...not really this is the shortest day on the water so far.  There were several swings and a deck overlooking Kilkenny Creek where we docked for the night.

Vi on a deck overlooking the creek with Seahawk in the background.

A Little Bit of This and That

We left early this morning (6:30) in order to be ahead of the rising tide. Had to use spotlights to see the first few markers. We were in the Beaufort River which is broad and deep with a well-marked channel. This took us past Parris Island but we didn't see any Marines.  Guess it was to early for them. Just past Parris Island Spit we took a starboard turn to cross Port Royal Sound. This is supposedly the deepest natural harbor south of the Chesapeake Bay.  It's only about 5 miles across the sound but it was a bumpy ride with lots of white caps. 

From the sound we turned left into Skull Creek which goes past Hilton Head Island.  There were several folks on the radio telling us to slow down...leave no wake. One southern sounding lady came on and said "Remember, you're responsible for any damage you cause".  We could hardly stop laughing about any wake we could possibly leave. I told Phil I should have told her not to get her panties in a was because she couldn't go south for the winter.

There has been little funding in the past few years for maintenance dredging of the ICW south of Port Royal Sound, SC and Cumberland Sound, GA. So some areas in lower South Carolina and most of Georgia have become shallower with each passing year.  That means it's important to stay in the channel. follow the magenta line (the ICW route) and give markers a wide berth which we do. 

We crossed the Savannah River, going through a couple of cuts, and took the Wilmington River.  As a side note for those of you who read "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" the Bonadventure Cemetery made famous in that book is visible from the ICW.  

We arrived at Sail Harbor Marina, east of Savannah, about 2:30... a little early to stop for the day but we had to get a pump-out and had laundry to do. 

Below are the pictures that I couldn't upload last night and a few from today. Enjoy!

Our Swiss friends, Patricia and Thierry, that we met at Green Pond, SC.

For our Cypress Cove Crusiing Club, we're with you in spirit for the fotilla this week-end.  Seahawk is all dressed up.

Phil all bundled up and ready for Christmas. 

Sunrise over Port Royal Sound.  The Albemarle Sound doesn't have anything on this one when it comes to choppy water...especially when the tide and winds are opposing which they were later this morning

Think these guys were waiting for lunch?  There were dozens of them in the wake of this boat taking up crab pots or something.

We passed this cruise ship north of Savannah; we couldn't decided where it was coming from or going to.  For the inquiring minds. it was the Independence.

CCCCers,  remember what it's like to pass a barge in the ICW. Thank goodness this big boy doesn't come up our way...it was at least 150' long.

Phil spotted this pair of eagles in one of the marshes we were passing.  This is as close as I could zoom in.

Seahwak and Kermit at rest after a hard day's work. Thankfully we haven't had any trouble with the boat. Hoping that will continue.

Charleston to Port Royal

After an uncomfortable night on the face dock in Charleston City Marina we were more than ready to get going Sunday morning.  There were heavy clouds so we couldn't leave until about 7:15. 

Instead of canals and dredged cuts like the ICW (Intercoastal Waterway) in North Carolina, this section winds across wide river mouths, through sounds and past coastal inlets.  There are swift tidal currents, and lots of bottlenose dolphins that ride the wake of passing boats. It's pretty straightforward piloting but also easy to lose your way if you don't keep track of the markers.  Phil is very careful about this, in fact, he makes a list of every marker with the color and number for each day's trip.

We pulled into a tiny fishing village, Green Pond, SC about 2:30 and docked behind a hugh shrimp boat.  You'll see pictures later.  There was a small seafood market there where the fishermen sell their catch so we had fresh shrimp for dinner that night.  That is the only business in the village.

A couple of hours after we docked, a boat from Switzerland pulled in.  It was a couple with a 9 year old child (Patricia, Thierry, and Marvin) and they had been living on the boat since he was 2 weeks old.  They didn't have reservations but were looking for safe harbor from an approaching storm.  We really enjoyed getting to know them during the 2 days that we waited out the storm. 

This morning dawned partially cloudy and cool but we left Green Pond about 7:30 right behind our new friends.  Phil said it was the most relaxed day he had had behind the wheel. We had our very own airshow from figther jets stationed at the US Marine Corp Air Station. I was so enthralled in watching them fly formation and buzz our boats that I forgot to take pictures. 

By the time we got to Ladies Island Swing Bridge at 11:05 it was COLD.  The bridge is on restricted openings so we had to wait until 1pm for the next opening.  There is a marina just before you reach the birdge that's on the protected water of Factory Creek. They allow boats to dock there free for a couple of hours to shop or just wait for the bridge opening.  Our Swiss friends decided to spend the night there but we came on to Port Royal Landing Marina which is right at the mouth of Port Royal Sound.  We didn't want to risk getting through the bridge before 7am and it doesn't open from 7-9.

Here are a few pictures from the past 3 days.   

 
This is the small seafood market and dock where we found shelter from the storms.

And this is the big shrimp boat I mentioned.  It didn't go out while we were there because of the weather.



But a smaller boat was out when we got there and gave us these fish that Phil is cleaning.  They were delicious.

There are some more pictures that I wanted to add but it would take until Christmas to upload with wi-fi speed at 18Mbps.  Maybe tomorrow night.

For those of you who have, or want to add comments, I don't know what to tell you.  I've been able to see only comments from Kathy and Bill.  Will let you know if I can figure it out. 

Today was uneventful on the water.  No weather problems, no narrow cuts to navigate, and no swift currents to battle until time to anchor.  We went a little past Charleston harbor up the Wappoo River to an anchorage recommended in one of our cruising guides...probably Skipper Bob's which we've found to be woefully out of date.  We found the anchorage okay but between the current and the tide we couldn't get the anchor to hold.  After aggravating with that for about 30 minutes, we gave up and came back to the Charleston City Marina.  We're sitting here at the end of the face dock with a lot of mega yachts...makes our little boat look like a bathtub toy.  The bathhouse, restrooms, laundry, marina office, etc. is at least a quarter mile from where we're docked.  And as for wi-fi, they're no better than the small ones we've stayed in for the past couple of nights.  This one is so busy that it kicks you off about every 10 minutes.  So much for big pricey marinas.

I'll try to show you a little of what we saw today.



This was one of the first things we saw this morning as we entered the ICW..two boats anchored in what appears to be grass but it's really marshland that's deep enough for an anchorage.

This is the same two boats against a firey sunrise.



One more shot of that magnificient sunrise.  And those of you who know me well know that I'm not a morning person but this is worth getting up for. 

There's always a faster boat than us and this time I caught it in passing. 



Phil thought this was so pretty with the cloud banks in the background.

Not sure if this guy was resting or standing watch.  As you can see, he wasn't intimidated by our passing so close.

Guess this one just got tried and quit.

Another brave watchman on a very worn-out ICW navigation aid.

This was our first glimpse of the new twin span bridge in Charleston.

This is not a pirate ship as much as it may look like one; it's a cruise boat out of the Charleston harbor.

 We past a regetta in progress and I caught these two boats in front of the new bridge. 

That's all folks.  It's past our bedtime because 5:30 comes awful early. Phil is still working on tomorrow's route...one marina is too close and the next one looks like another one of those mom-and-pop places that doesn't have much to offer except a dock. 

Until next time, God bless.